Transmission Slipping

It seems that most Terminator owners encounter shifting difficulties due to inadequate clutch disengagement, either sooner or later. Many solve this with aftermarket quadrant/adjuster setups, but there is another way. It doesn’t take long, and it costs nothing, but it does require some skill and mechanical experience.

1. Remove the driver’s seat. I know it sounds like overkill but trust me you will be a LOT happier if you do this first. Lying upside down over the front of a Terminator seat is one of the most unpleasant positions I’ve ever found myself in and forget about it if you’re over 200lbs! It’s actually pretty easy anyway and I was impressed to see that Dave had taken it out in about 5 minutes.

2. Lie flat on your back and look up directly between the steering shaft and the gas pedal, you’ll see an off-white plastic thing that looks like part of a gear with a hook on it, let’s call it the “add-tension” adjuster. With your other hand depress the clutch pedal back and forth and observe the motion of the adjuster. If you look carefully you’ll see that it’s teeth are interlocked into another smaller off-white plastic piece closer to the firewall. When you release the clutch pedal notice that the smaller piece (”release-tension” adjuster) rests on the edge of a flat grey piece of metal. Essentially what we will be doing is defeating the ability of these 2 parts to make contact, turning our auto adjuster into a manual one. If we don’t disable this first, any tension that is put into the cable will just be taken out by the release-tension adjuster the next time the clutch pedal is pulled up or released quickly during a spirited shift.

3. We’ll need to remove the hook from the add-tension adjuster so we can access that metal plate more easily. Using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, cut the hook off almost flush with the bottom, so it looks like the pic below. You could cut it with a pair of dikes but you’re definitely risking collateral damage to the adjuster. The hook is only there to keep a spring from unwinding when the assembly is removed from the car, it has no purpose during normal vehicle operation.

4. Now the fun part: Get a friend to hold the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and keep it there. You could cut a piece of wood or find something to wedge against the pedal and something else if you’re in a pinch but the pedal must remain pressed as far as it can go. You can try holding the pedal with one hand while working with the other (while trying to hold the light as well) but again, not recommended if you want to remain sane. When the pedal is fully depressed it will expose the top of the metal plate of which you will want to cut the upper part off flush.

If you don’t have a Dremel you can bend the top of the plate out (away from firewall) and down 180* but this is not easy to do because that plate is pretty thick and there is limited room to manipulate tools. Plus you have be sure the bent piece is clear of the adjuster when it moves. It’s much easier to cut it, just don’t push the cutting wheel in too deep because there is a switch right behind the plate.

5. When you’re done observe that the release-tension adjuster no longer comes into contact with the plate when the pedal released. If not, you will need to cut or bend some more until the plate is clear of both parts of the adjuster. Also be sure the push button switch attached behind the plate is still properly aligned and actuating along with the clutch.

6. The easy part, the clutch cable adjustment: With the clutch released simply place the butt of a hammer or something with a rubberized handle on the bottom of the add-tension adjuster.

Slowly and carefully apply pressure until you hear a click. If it took a lot of pressure then maybe that will be enough. Stop here and test the clutch pedal engagement height. If the first click required only light to moderate pressure then you will probably want to pop the adjuster up at least one more click. Each corresponding click tightens the cable further and will take more effort than the one before but most people should see definite improvements with just 2 clicks of added tension. I would be concerned about adding more than 3 clicks of tension. This could overtighten the cable or indicate that you may have a stretched/damaged cable or other issue. If you feel there is too much tension use a big flat head screwdriver and push the release-tension adjuster up right at where you cut the metal plate and it will pop loose, releasing cable tension. Be careful when releasing tension because some have had the cable end come off at the clutch fork.

WARNING: Overtightening the cable could result in damage to the cable, pressure plate, TOB, adjuster or excessively high pedal engagement along with a slipping clutch. IMO a properly adjusted clutch should be close to fully engaged about halfway through it’s range of motion off the floor. You may also notice a pop or clank sound when you push the clutch all the way to the floor after an adjustment. This is normal because your TOB is now moving further than it has in a long time or even ever before. Over time the noises should get quieter or completely stop. I think it’s a good idea to lubricate the TOB/retaining sleeve occasionally as this will quiet down and extend the life of these parts, just be sure not to get lubricant on the clutch.

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Before you put any money down on a new car you must do a mechanical inspection to find out if there are any problems which need to be dealt with. If you don’t have the skills to do this yourself then you should take the car to your auto repair shop and ask then to do a pre-sale inspection. Make sure that during the car inspection your mechanic or technician has done the following checks.

Engine. Check the oil pressure and inspect if there are any oil leaks. Through a compression check, the condition of the cylinder and rings are determined. During idling of the engine, determine whether it is running smooth or it has the tendency to buck around. This is a warning sign of ignition problems or irregularities in the fuel system.

Transmission. The most important thing is to check for slipping. If the car is a standard transmission (has a clutch), then the clutch should be let out slowly at a stop sign. Observe if the car immediately starts or the engine revs up before the car can even move. This is a sign of a worn clutch which will cost you $500 to $800 for repairs. If the car has an automatic transmission, kick it into passing gear and observe if you get a good response or if the engine races. If there is a problem, rebuilding an automatic transmission will cost you $1500 to $2000. Also, check if there are leaks and make sure that the drive line is tight.

Steering. Observe what happens when you are going down a straight road slowly with no crown. When you lightly loosen up your hold on the wheel, does the steering wheel try to pull one way or another? It is normal when you experienced a slight drift towards the right which is to guard against head-ons in case you suddenly fall asleep, but it should not pull. Also, when you are driving and there is a bump, observe if the front of the car is moving up and down once or the oscillation is longer. If the front of car is bouncy, this is a sign that that the car has bad struts and you have to pay $500, or more, to repair it.

Rear End. Is there a growling noise when you go around corners? This can be a sign of bad wheel bearings. For a car with a front wheel drive, this is not a big problem but may still cost you some hundred dollars to repair.

Brakes. There should be good wear left on all brakes. You can get the specs out of the repair manual for that particular vehicle. A brake job may be advertised for $79.00 but when you get to the shop they always find more wrong and you end up paying a much bigger bill.

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Sodium (salt) is an essential mineral needed by the body to function. Along with the mineral Potassium, it is required to regulate the movement of fluids into and out of cells which is critical for nerve impulse transmission and muscle contraction.

However, excess consumption has been linked to many health problems including high blood pressure (hypertension), heart disease and stroke. Consuming too much Sodium may also be related to kidney and liver disease, some cancers and may adversely affect bone density levels.

While most of this is quite well known, salt may actually be playing a bigger part in gaining weight than first thought.

While the link between obesity and excess sugar and fat consumption is obvious, it is now becoming apparent that salt is a major contributor to obesity as well.

This is most likely due the fact that the more salt we consume, the thirstier we become and instead of drinking water, many of us prefer to reach for the sugary drinks such as soft drink to quench our thirst. Soft drink, loaded with sugar, and sodium, it is also full of artificial colours and flavours. All things that we can do without!

In the past 20 years, the sodium content in processed foods has nearly tripled. With most people conscious of reading labels for fat and calorie contents, sodium seems to be slipping under the radar. It’s no wonder it has been called “the silent killer” by health professionals.

Meeting the necessary daily intake for Sodium is easily done by eating healthy, whole foods like fresh fruits and vegetables, grains, nuts and seeds.

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This brake system is the greatest innovation in active safety for cars that has saved many lives. He was 30 years ago a Mercedes Benz model, the S-Class, offered as an option to prevent wheel lockup when braking suddenly. It was a big step to improve the safety of automobiles.

ABS is the name of its denomination in English Antilock Braking System. Subsequently adopted by other high-end cars like the BMW 7 Series. In principle the device is intended for the landing of aircraft, but led to the safety of the cars too.

This important technological solution was found by Robert Bosch in 1938 who had patented a very rudimentary, and slow performance problems.

Bosch in 1964 investigated the current system with the company Mercedes Benz. In 1970 he introduced the first generation that has helped to reduce the stopping distance and built an electronic device technology.

It was a heavy for a thousand analog components and prevented therefore to implement a series of car. With digital technology was achieved by a small and very efficient.

Fourteen years later handed over to Bosch Mercedes Benz ABS for the first installment of a car. At first the incorporation of ABS sistemna was slow in the first high-end models.

In 1981 he joined vehicles and in 1985 came to the U.S..

In 1986 the added Traction Control System, to prevent slipping while accelerating the vehicle.

Only in 1989 a new generation 70% more lightweight and affordable, that allowed the industrial under pressure to implement more security for consumers and competition between the automobile.

In 1989 only 0.6% of vehicles had ABS in 1999 and the Bosch company reached a production of ten million ABS systems.

By 1998 over half of new cars have ABS. In 1985 the Ford Scorpio was the first large car to have ABS.

Of the cars manufactured in Spain, in 1993, ABS had the Renault R19 and the Citroen ZX.

ABS was the name adopted by all manufacturers because consumers rioja imposed. It was not like the traction control or stability control (ESP). It was in 1995, another security system, stability control to prevent understeer and overseer.

Currently the firm produces 65,000 units per day Bosch ABS in 2007 reached 150 million units in 2008 and will reach 170 million.

Now the device weighs 1.4 pounds, about 5 pounds less than in 1978. Thus contributing to less weight to lower fuel consumption and environmental pollution arising from it. The technology continues to provide devices to boost security to drive.

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